Definitive Guide to Replacing Windows

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Vitals

LONGEVITY
While a well-made window can easily last 50 years or more, manufacturers usually offer warranties of 10 years on hardware and workmanship and 20 years on the seals that keep insulating glass from fogging. Some makers will even cover exterior-finish failures within a specified time span.

WHERE TO BUY
You’ll find the greatest range of choices and the best advice at window retailers and full-service lumberyards.

INSTALLATION
Leave this to a pro who has experience assessing and measuring a window opening and knows the proper techniques for installing replacement windows.

SAVINGS
Energy Star–certified windows can cut heating and cooling costs by 11 to 37 percent* depending on the type of windows being replaced and your climate zone.

Choose Your Style

The way a window operates should be in keeping with the style of house you have.

1. DOUBLE-HUNG- The most popular window in the U.S., and the most appropriate type for traditional house styles, it has two sashes that slide up and down. (On single-hungs, only the lower sash moves.) The screen mounts on the outside. When open, the sashes cover at least half the window opening.

2. CASEMENT- Its hinged sash swings out like a door, so air can flow freely through the entire opening. Seals tightly to its jamb, making it one of the best types for keeping out the weather. Operates by hand or by turning a crank. When open, the sash is vulnerable to wind and rain. Best for contemporary and Prairie-style homes. The screen mounts on the inside.

3. SLIDER- Like a double-hung window on its side, the sashes slide on horizontal tracks—so there’s no lifting —and the sashes always cover at least half the window opening. Best for contemporary house designs. Screens mount to the outside. The lower tracks require regular cleaning.

4. AWNING OR HOPPER- It’s like a casement mounted on its side. An awning window (shown) is hinged at the top and swings out, so you can leave it open when it rains. The screen is on the inside. A hopper window has bottom hinges and swings in. The screen is on the outside. Both types seal well, and with the right muntin configuration, they can look good on either traditional or modern houses.

5. TILT-TURN- Common in Europe, this window has special hardware that allows it to tilt in like a hopper or pivot in like a door, depending on which way you turn the handle. The screen mounts outside. It does a superb job of sealing out the weather, but it’s the most expensive window type.

6. FIXED (not shown)- Without a sash to open, it only lets in light, so it’s less expensive and more energy-efficient than comparable windows with sashes. Best for inaccessible areas, such as gable peaks, or as architectural accents; it can be crafted into almost any size or shape.

Glass Choices

Double-pane
Compared with single-pane windows, this type is up to 37 percent* better at preventing heat transfer, so interiors stay warmer in winter and cooler in summer. Double-pane windows are also less susceptible to condensation than single pane.

Triple-pane
Adding a third layer of glass cuts heat transfer by another 30 percent, making this the best barrier against cold and condensation. It’s a good choice for north-facing walls, but on a south-facing wall, three panes would cut down on the amount of solar heat that a window lets in.

Laminated
An invisible layer of plastic sandwiched between two sheets of tempered glass creates a pane that’s virtually unbreakable. Use it to foil intruders, muffle sound, and protect your house from earthquakes and hurricanes.

Materials

Your choice determines a window’s longevity, performance, and looks.

1. Wood Long a traditional favorite, it’s attractive, a decent insulator, and easy to repair. There’s virtually no limit to how it can be customized. Too bad it’s vulnerable to water. Attentive maintenance is the key to how long this window lasts. May be the only option in historic neighborhoods.

2. Clad Wood This is a wood window covered by an outside layer of vinyl or metal, usually aluminum, that virtually eliminates maintenance. Metal cladding is more durable by far. This window shows off wood’s aesthetic qualities on the inside while making use of its insulating properties.

3. Fiberglass This mix of spun glass fiber and polyester resin is rigid, strong, impervious to water, and as good an insulator as solid wood. Some manufacturers offer a wood lining on the interior. About as maintenance-free a window as you can get, for less than a comparable wood unit. The downside? A limited number of design choices.

4. Vinyl It’s inexpensive, to be sure, but slowly becomes brittle with age. The frame isn’t stiff, doesn’t insulate well, can’t be repaired, and looks nothing like traditional wood.

5. Aluminum or Steel It’s low maintenance but suitable only for mild climates because of how easily it carries heat outside in the winter and inside in the summer.

Look for the Window Label

To know how effectively a window halts heat loss or reflects the sun’s heat, among other things, consult a label like the one at right. It contains test results from the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC), an independent organization, that you can use to quickly compare the performance of different windows. Not all windows are subject to NFRC scrutiny, so this label is your assurance that a unit meets the local energy code. Here’s the key information, deciphered.

ENERGY STAR
The shaded portions of the map show where a window meets Energy Star criteria. This unit passes muster nationwide.

U-FACTOR
Measures how effectively a window stops heat flow. The smaller the number, the better the performance.

VISIBLE TRANSMITTANCE (VT)
Specifies how much light passes through; 0 is opaque, 1 is transparent. Glass with a VT of 0.60 or more looks clear. A VT below 0.40 gives things a grayish cast.

SOLAR HEAT GAIN COEFFICIENT (SHGC)
Indicates the ability of the glass to block the sun’s heat. The lower the number, the less heat gets in. In the northern zone (see map below), an SHGC of 0.32 or more can offset less-than-ideal U-factors up to 0.30.

NOTE
Some labels also report the air leakage through a unit in cubic feet per minute per square foot. Look for 0.3 or less.